Monday, July 27, 2015

Triple-digit temperatures
have been a consistent theme in Paris this summer. For appetites flattened by
the spiking mercury, take advantage of the seemingly endless supply of small
plates restaurants popping up around town. Here, some of our favorites.
Artisan Craft cocktails were the first draw at this cheerful spot just off
the gorgeous Avenue Trudaine, in the 9th arrondissement. (And with choices
like the Espadin Old Fashioned, with pineapple-infused mescal, coriander
syrup, bitters and absinthe, and the Summer Cup, with vodka, lemon juice,
crème de pêche and champagne, why wouldn't they be?) But a whole,
delicious dinner can also be cobbled together here, with servings of warm
endive salad, house-made ricotta ravioli with chard and Alsatian bacon, or
gravlax with beets and horseradish cream. Bones James Henry has
disappointed fans of creative, flavorful cooking by recently announcing the
closure, on August 7, of his upscale bistro just off the Place Voltaire—so
make another visit while it lasts. While we love the grown-up tasting menu in
back, the front bar is even better, with impeccable kegs of Craig Allan craft
beers, house-made charcuterie, and shareable dishes like smoked eel with
grilled green asparagus, or cockles with potatoes and chorizo. Be relieved
that Henry's brilliant brown bread and fermented butter (and perhaps the
grilled duck hearts, too) will live on in his next, yet-to-be-announced
restaurant. We'll know more in a few months.   L'Avant Comptoir
When it opened in 2009, I put off visiting this standing-room-only French
tapas bar just off the Place de l'Odéon for a couple months, as I hate
crowds and like to sit down. The minute I actually entered the place, I
started wolfing down tiny portions of seared tuna and house-made ketchup, itsy
bitsy bowls full of pesto-spiked baby pasta poetically called "bird's
tongue," a waffle with artichoke cream and country ham, and a roundup of the
best charcuterie (mostly Basque) that France has to offer, and declared it my
home-away-from-home. It's open from noon to midnight, seven days a week.
There are usually about ten all-natural reds and whites by the glass at any
one time. The mood is so raucous you can't help but overindulge just a bit,
especially with serve-yourself Poujaran bread and Bordier butter on all the
counters. Give yourself an hour at this place and you will make friends, no
matter what (3 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 75006, no phone, no website).
Martin Au Passage, the wine bar on a side street in the 11th, gave James
Henry his start. It also spawned this friendly, lovely hangout on a shady
stretch of the Boulevard du Temple, where abbreviated portions of marinated
beets, carrot salads, line-caught grilled fish, asparagus with caper-rich
salsa verde and egg, and whatever else tickles the chef's fancy, come with a
large selection of by-the-glass natural wines. (During the day, a regular
three-course lunch is served, as at Au Passage. ) Quality is high and prices
are gentle. Verjus Bar à Vins This little vaulted space (pictured)
underneath Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian's upscale Palais Royal restaurant
has been sating fried chicken-deprived Americans (and French people who
didn't know what they were missing) since it opened in 2011. Shredded
cabbage salad with a snap of jalapeño, seasonal vegetables, and chili-spiked
French fries deliver big flavor in small packages. Alexandra Marshall is a
contributing editor and the Paris correspondent at Travel & Leisure.
Food, design, architecture and fashion are her specialties, which means,
living in Paris, that she is very busy. Follow her on Twitter and on
Instagram. More good reads from T+L:
• 25 Secret European Villages
• World's Top 10 Cities
• Best Places to Travel in 2015 Did you enjoy
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Back to New York City's Grand Central Station in the 1940s These
eateries pack big flavor into small plates, the perfect experience for
sampling or sharing. Here are our favorites.

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